Kabayen Mummies Caves, Mt. Timbak (aka Mt. Singakalsa), Philippines

The Kabayen Mummies caves are a really interesting site to visit, and learn about the practices of burying the dead in Philippines centuries ago. 4 hours ride by shared van from Baguio (a famous tourist destination in Philippines), 

Most frequently taken route to get to the summit is via the KM 55 jump-off, and start the hike. The summit is about 3.5 KMs from there.

I took the way from Kabayan. Lodged at Pine Cone lodge overnight and started the trek at 5 am, so we can cover as much before the sun comes up. I met another traveler at the lodge and we hired a guide together to get to the peak of Mt. Timbak. 

Entrance to Cave at Kabayan town

The evening before that I visited another cave in the town itself. Just 5-7 minutes walk from the lodge. There were human skulls (arranged), and bones, and coffins. The coffins could be opened and the remains seen. There is a trail off the road, and goes from between the houses. A caretaker charges a small fee for the maintenance.

Human skulls, bones and coffins @Cave at Kabayan town

The next day, we took off for Mt. Timbak caves. I am not much of a hiker, and taking the longer route didn't seem like the best idea during the hike... but I did it :D And am glad I did.. The hike is okay, but the view is beautiful. With some terrace farming that you could see on the way. And the fact that it's the third highest mount in Luzon island and 9th highest in Philippines makes it interesting. They are now making a road to the top for easy access. 


On the way to the summit, we visited the burial caves. The mummified coffins were buried in caves. It was because they thought it was easier for the soul to depart from a cave, than from under the ground, so I have heard. The rocks were made softer by making a fire, and then the caves built. 

Way to Kabayan Burial Caves

Burial Caves

Bull/Boar horns are commonly found in the region

People commonly put a bull/boar horns in front of their shops, houses or on their cars. An age old practice, probably to ward off evil; or must have been a symbol of strength.. 

 It was a long long hike for me. The other traveler took off ahead ;) I somehow managed to make it to the caves and visited the caves. It was completely worth-it. Centuries old mummified remains in coffins, some with their ears and hair still there. The corpses were lay in coffins in fetal positions, and families were buried together in the same coffin sometimes. 

6 year old in fetal position mummified and buried in cave

Feet of a woman

The traditional tattoos can still be seen on the bones

Families were buried together in the same coffins sometimes

How to get there:

Manila to Baguio bus (I traveled Victory Liner)- 445 PHP, 8-10 hours
Baguio to Kabayen shared cab (FX) from slaughterhouse compound - PHP 150, 4-5 hrs

When covering Kabayen, and if there is time in hand one can do Baguio -> Kabayen -> Sagada -> Kalinga -> Banaue -> Manila. Can do Vigan as well, but it's slightly further north.

For Kalinga Buscalan village,
 http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2014/08/kalinga.html


For Hanging coffins, caving and more at Sagada:
http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2015/01/sagada-mt-province-hanging-coffins-and.html

Sagada, Mt. Province - Hanging coffins and a LOT more!

While I was researching about Sagada, and what I could do there, I mostly read about the hanging coffins.

I planned my week's trip with 2 days at Kabayen, 2 days at Sagada and then head to Vigan (I had already been to Kalinga so it wasn't on my list, but Kalinga is another place you must visit when you're doing this side of Philippines). It's only when I got to Sagada I learnt there is a lot more to the place than the hanging coffins.

The tourism department hands a map to you with the places you can visit during your stay. And there is plenty -- ranging from hiking, caving to waterfalls, lakes and the traditional practices mummification and hanging/buried in caves coffins. Apart from places to visit, the map gives u details of lodging, trips from Sagada to Baguio, to Banaue, and from Baguio/Banaue to Manila. Makes it very easy to plan.

 I reached mid-day, and headed to the Sugong hanging coffins view point, went to the Sumaging cave - but you can't enter Sumaging without a guide. I still took my chances. I went down the stairs, entered the cave (it was really dark, and my first time caving).


Went a couple of meters ahead, but it wasn't a good idea to go alone. I came back later to Sumaging with a group, we hired a guide.

Entrance of Sumaging Cave

When going caving, you can choose to visit only the Sumaging cave; or do a cave connect which begins at Lumiang cave and exits at Sumaging. I went only to Sumaging.

Be ready to get a little wet when you go caving. There is a river you can go to and take a swim and come out on the other side of the cave where you see rock formations. Or you can straight head to the rock formations.

Guide helping us go inside cave

Water inside Sumaging Cave

Not sure what the rock is made of, maybe limestone or something, but to look at, it seems very slippery. But when you step on it, the grip is better than the rest. Don't get over-confident tho, I slipped couple times. ;)

Caving

Caving

From Sumaging, I headed to Lumiang Burial Cave. You don't really need a guide to go there if you just want to walk around the cave and see the coffins. The gate to the trail for Lumiang is kind of small and difficult to locate. It's just opposite the parking area, next to a small street shop. 

Lumiang Burial Caves

 The coffins with lizard made on it were of people belonging to affluent families. People were buried in coffins in fetal positions, and sometimes families were together in the same coffin.

When you exit the burial caves, across the road are more coffins underground cave. Some travelers mentioned it is believed to belong to women who could not bear children (but the guide wasn't aware of a concept like that).

 I had reached Sagada on 31st December. It was evening, I grabbed some bear, had dinner with some more travelers I had met on the day, got invited (while I was walking back home) to join a family there who were having a bonfire and singing and dancing, and with them I went to the community basketball court for a bonfire after dinner with some more travelers. They play the gong, and dance and have a bonfire... People love to have bonfires in Sagada, it complements the weather, and the warm & welcoming people. And the gong is amazing... A very different and wonderful experience..


The following day I headed to Sagada Brew for a sumptuous brunch. Delicious food. Tables were always full, and I offered the extra seat at my table to another traveler. We were sitting outside on the porch (and woah, was it cold!). While I was finishing my plate, an old lady walked up, reached for the packet of smokes on the table, lit one and went on. It all happened in a matter of seconds, that by the time I realized what had happened she was on her way already ;)

Echo Valley Hanging Coffins

After brunch, we headed to the trails via the cemetery leading to Echo valley, rightly called so for anything you say echoes :) You cana see the hanging coffins from here. A trail from the Echo Valley goes to the Echo Valley hanging coffins. Another couple of minutes I was at the hanging coffins.


From Echo Valley hanging coffins, there is a connecting trail to the Underground river. While on your way, you cross another burial cave quite high up on a mountain. I went only up till here, but further ahead is the coffee plantation I believe.

Evening I headed to the underground river, the trail is easy, but best if you carry a stick or hiking pole if you're going alone. It's called underground river since a portion of it is in the cave. It starts there I believe.

Underground River

 This was nearly the end of my trip, last night I met some more locals, went singing with them.

More places to see in Sagada include blue soil mountains, sunset point hike, lakes and waterfalls.

How to get there:

Manila to Baguio bus (I traveled Victory Liner)- 445 PHP, 8-10 hours
Baguio to Sagada bus (can find one at the local bus stand) - 220 PHP 4-6 hours
I went to Sagada via Kabayen - from Kabayen high way, you can find a jeepney/jeep to Sagada direct, or to Bontoc (3-4 hrs) and then from Bontoc get a Jeepney to Sagada (1 hr)

When covering Sagada, and if there is time in hand one can do Baguio -> Kabayen -> Sagada -> Kalinga -> Banaue -> Manila. Can do Vigan as well, but it's slightly further north.

For Kalinga Buscalan village:
 http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2014/08/kalinga.html

For Kabayen mummies caves:
http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2015/01/kabayen-mummies-caves-mt-timbak-aka-mt.html 

Coron Palawan, Philippines

Coron - one of the most popular scuba diving and snorkeling destinations in Philippines. From island hopping, to delicious sea food (cooked on boats); from enjoying the corals #beautiful to diving at World War 2 Japanese ship wrecks #Vintage!!

Some of the best locations were Malcapuya island, Kayangan lake, Barracuda lake, Buloc dos island, World war 2 ship wrecks diving and mt. Tapas. Oh and don't forget the hot spring.

While going to Kayangan lake, you need to hike a few steps, and the view from the top is amazing.

Enroute Kayangan lake

@Kayangan Lake

@Kayangan Lake

At the Kayangan lake you can swim across the lake, and into a small cave.

Barracuda Lake Lime Stone Mtn.

Reaching Barracuda lake

Barracuda lake is a fresh water lake in the midst of the ocean - more like a lime stone mountain in the middle of the ocean, shaped like a bowl, holding the lake within. There's rock formation from where you can try cliff jumping, swim to the middle of the lake (which is kind of scary).

The islands and beaches at Coron... oh what a sight! Clear waters, fishes, corals, hammocks and the sun :)

Kayaking at Bulog Dos

Malcapuya Island

Malcapuya clear waters

Fooood cooked on boat.. Fresh and SO delicious

I also got attacked by small fishes. I was snorkeling, without disturbing the waters much or making much noise, so I could see the fishes swim around and not get scared. This one fish (white) swims to my face and turns back (I smile thinking 'yei swimming with the fishes'); it comes again and goes back. Does this couple of times, I am happy smiling. And before I know it there is a really big group of small fishes around me. Woah! .. And then one nibbles on me!! That's it, time to get out ;) I think they thought I am (or have) food. Phewsh, came back alive ;)

I wish I had an underwater camera to capture the world war ship wrecks and our swim inside the wrecks. And capture the beautiful marine life you can see while snorkeling and diving.

Unarguably, one of the best places to dive. Get a flight from Manila to get to Coron and enjoy the delicious food, beaches, snorkeling and diving. Carry a kayak on your boat, stay put at an island overnight, and climb to Mt. Tapas!

The Perfect Cone - @Mayon Volcano

Mayon was recently on Alert level 3. An active volcano in province of Albay was spewing lava and smoke. Seeing a possibility of a violent eruption, the 8 kms around Mayon was ordered to be evacuated.

But it's a sight to see the vast Mayon in the dark when it releases the pressure off the top of its cone. And a perrrrrfect cone! 

How could you miss this majestic volcano!! Mayon rarely erupts violently, mostly releases the lava and smoke every now and then.

I reached over the weekend, and they announced that it was already a little calm by then, so no fresh lava. I thought it would really just be a mountain then, for which I traveled 10 hours one way! But now that I was here, I went to the Lignon Hill. One of the best views you can get to Mayon.. :)

The view was so mesmerizing that I couldn't stop looking... I just could't. Surrounded by beautiful fields and meadows, and in the shape of a perfect cone, not an inch here or there. A beautiful crater, perfectly round, and the 5 am sun shining over it! THAT was the view of Mayon! 

Mayon in midst of morning clouds and sun

While on my way to Lignon view point, I saw Mayon from a distance, and kept watching till I took the bus at the terminal.

At the top of the cone, the texture of the mountain looks rough and black because it forces out lava and smoke every now and then. And it gives a rugged look to the mountain, making it even more handsome! That's probably the reason I couldn't get my eyes off Mayon!

 It's not really off the alert, but it's calm now. They let you take ATV rides, hike up with a guide. (Can find that while hiking to Lignon hill to reach the view point). But these activities were shut for safety of people. But I intend to return to Mayon for a hike.


Getting to Mount Mayon from Manila - you can board a bus from Cubao to Legazpi City or Daraga. These cities ae at the foot of the mount, just about 12 kms away from it. It mostly takes around 9-10 hours from manila to Legazpi. But if you take a bus in the morning, it could go upto 15 hours due to traffic. Stay at Backpackers Inn - easy access to viewpoint, transport and cheap.

Other places to see - Check out Hoyop-Hoyopan caves, Cagsawa ruins.

Hike to Taal Volcano, Tagaytay

2 hours drive from Manila, and you can reach some really beautiful places! This visit was to Taal volcano.

Known as one of the smallest volcanoes in the world, and the only one which is an island in an island in an island.

Luzon in Philippines is an island, Taal volcanic hill is an island itself in Luzon in between Taal lake, and inside the volcanic hill crater is now a lake with a very tiny island :) 

The boat ride to Taal volcano is beautiful, the water mirrors the sky.

Boat to Taal Volcano

      The hike uphill is easy.. just pray it's not too sunny. We went on a really hot day! 

There are horse rides also available when you enter the hill, but I personally did not like how they keep the horses.. And the hike is fun! Reach uphill, and treat yourself to a Buko (coconut) :)

The view from the top, is beautiful! You could also play some golf there and try to hit the ball into the lake ;) 

To get to Taal, you can take a shared FX from Star Mall (Ortigas) or a bus from Cubao. Stay overnight at Tagaytay and a boat to Taal in the morning.

Kalinga - Hike to the Tribal Village of Buscalan to Meet the Last Mambabatok

Around 20 hours away from Manila, I visited the Butbut tribe of Buscalan to see the oldest and last tribal tattoo artist (Mamababatok) in Philippines. She is the only one left from the native tribes now. I wasn't sure if I will get a tattoo, but when you're there, you ought to get one in the traditional way! And that is now the story of my first tattoo for life! :-) THAT is the way to get inked! 

Fang-Od's grand daughter, Grace,helped with drawing the design, and is now picking up the art.. 

Getting my first tattoo from the 'last' and the oldest tribal tattoo artist from Kalinga.. tattoo by Whang-Od.

Tattoo by Whang-Od, the 95 year old last Mambabatok in Philippines..

Started off solo from Manila, requested guide Francis Pa-In (who is quite famous in the area) and it's always good to hire a guide because there are lot of rides you need to take to get to Buscalan. On the way met some wonderful people from different ethnicity and finally it was 5 travelers who went to Buscalan. 

Getting to Buscalan, Kalinga was an adventure! Rode a bus to Banaue, jeepney to Bontoc. And from Bontoc when we took a Jeepney to reach Kalinga (where we started the hike) we rode on top of a Jeepney. and your trip isn't complete if you haven't done that! (but keep some a bag or cloth under your ass, or it'll hurt real bad later ;) )

on top of Jeepney...

Hike to the Buscalan village is not a difficult one! Just about 2 hours, and it's green, fresh, and scenic!

Reaching Buscalan Village: 450 PHP from Sto. Tomas university bus terminal to Banaue, 150 PHP from Banaue to Bontoc, 150 PHP from Bontoc. And then the hike to Buscalan.

How to get there:

Manila (Sto. Tomas University) to Banaue bus - 450 PHP, Overnight 8-10 hrs

Banaue to Bontoc Jeepney - 150 PHP 1.5 - 2 hours (can find one close to the registration office, but have to wait till it's full)

Bontoc to Buscalan village drop off point - 150 PHP

And then hike to the village. 

When covering Kalinga, and if there is time in hand one can do Baguio -> Kabayen -> Sagada -> Kalinga -> Banaue -> Manila. Can do Vigan as well, but it's slightly further north.

For Sagada hanging coffins: 

http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2015/01/sagada-mt-province-hanging-coffins-and.html

For Kabayen mummies caves:
http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2015/01/kabayen-mummies-caves-mt-timbak-aka-mt.html

The Passion of the Christ: Holy Week at Paombong, Philippines

With the Spanish and American rule, Catholicism became very popular in Philippines. Holy Week, the week before Easter, is a significant religious observance - the Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday, Good Friday, Black Saturday and Easter Sunday. Traditional Christians treat these days as fast days. Strict Catholics eat only one full meal, and two small meals (which together are less than one whole meal) in a day and no meat is prepared (beef, pork, chicken, etc.). The streets of Philippines see processions to mark thanks giving to the Lord.

Philippines is among few countries that celebrate The Passion of the Christ - on Good Friday, people volunteer to be crucified to a cross. I visited a colleague's home in Paombong over the Holy Week and visited the ground where the play takes place. People volunteer to self-flagellate or be crucified.

We arrived at my friend's place on Thursday morning, spent the day eating some delicious fish and sea food dishes - bangus, shrimp soup, crabs... all home made! Masarap!

Good Friday noon, we left for the procession being held at an open area close to the church. The churches don't approve of such practices, but people follow their beliefs and volunteer. You need to walk a few minutes to reach the place. Be warned before you read more..  In the crowd you can see some people self-flagellate and it's scary.Fortunately or unfortunately, I didn't witness flagellate, but I heard from the locals that there are some blood drops that come on you if you are walking near someone who volunteers to flagellate. Sometimes their back slits open, or small pieces of 'flesh' fly around. Sent shivers down my spine!

The Crucifixion - Good Friday commemorates the passion and death of Jesus, and people enact the sculptural Way of The Cross. The first crucifixion ceremony I witnessed (it was the second volunteer of the day playing one of the robbers that was crucified) was on stage where the volunteer was nailed to The Cross. It was a huge crowd . Some oil is applied to the volunteer's feet and palms.. The Cross is put up on a stage, and the volunteer nailed to it, one foot above the other; the palms nailed on both ends. But somehow, to me this was just half as scary as the way to The Cross. The volunteer playing Christ is scourged through the way while he carries the Cross, he fainted on the way, everyone waited for him to gain consciousness - 5 minutes and the ceremony resumed. The scourging is where I felt a little distressed. The volunteer carries The Cross up the stage where crucifixion will be performed, the Cross is stood up and volunteer crucified. This volunteer playing Jesus also recites sermons to everyone.

I wondered what the volunteer feels! They say they feel no pain, it is an expression of thanks to the Lord for all that he has done for us, and to pay penance.

After the crucifixion ceremony, everyone goes to the Church for mass. We took off earlier, and headed back home.



Reaching Paombong from Metro Manila:

Paombong, 2-4 hours from Manila. Catch a bus from Cubao to Hagnoy, which will drop you at Paombong Ministop. From there we took a Jeepney to our destination.

Scuba Diving @Batangas, Philippines

Getting introduced to scuba diving at Batangas.. beautiful place! Ocean in the midst of hills. The cottage where we are at.. the porch opens up at the beach.. sat there soaking in the vastness of the oceans. Hmm.. the infinity amazes me.. Makes me imagine a lot of thing ;) being dropped in the middle sometimes and being carried by the waves. Or being gifted to communicate with the dolphins and whales at the first 'meet' ;) and then saving a dolphin from the money making fishing industries..

Anxiousness and excitement mixed, am ready to discover a millionth of the depth.. YES!! A 45 minutes introductory session. Most Important: DO NOT forget to breathe! And yes that happens - when I went in I realized it is very different to be breathing compressed air from a tank from your mouth, not breathing from your nose and fear that if you're not able to breathe 30 mts underwater it's going to feel like ages before you can come back to the shore and breathe normally again.. I love the water.. but I was a little scared! I started with snorkeling just at the shore which made me feel confident..! Snorkeling was a good idea to start with. The water spiders were a little creepy though.. But it did make me think that I could dive really easily :) but then.. that is what I THINK.

Depths of the Ocean

When we get to the diving point not too far from shore (since it is just an intro dive)the waters were not-so-calm and I found it slightly hard to breathe from the tanks. Then I needed extra weights.Took a little while for me to get used to it. I looked very anxious, so the instructor even asked me if I wanted to go ahead and do it or wanted to head back to the shore. I was scared but I had to experience it!! Okay let's do this..

Once you're underwater, it's far more easier. Water is calm, and I was super excited by now. It was beautiful! A different world.. And Batangas has beautiful corals and marine life to explore. It's like colonies where I am an alien.. fishes coming out of the corals.. watching out of curiosity and hiding into the corals when you're too close..

Finding Nemo :)

Starfish, Juvenile Barracudas, Nudibranch, Puffer fish and more.. And colorful corals! I couldn't stop smiling the rest of the day..

Followed by delicious Philippino dishes for lunch and some lazing around I tried Wind surfing.. :) So difficult. How do you balance on a surf board AND manage a sail?! But.... it was amazzzzzing fun!! I could barely manage to stay on the surf board for more than 3 minutes, and this is the 'better' time recorded after trying for some 15-20 mins. I would either fall over the sail, or take the sail on me and fall into the water. Haha..!!

Day was closing in, packed up to return. A wonderful Sunday, so much that I visited Batangas again with the same friends for more intro dive. I would be a pro-intro diver soon .. LOL ;)

I now have experience of 5 dives (intro/basic only still), but I can tell you Philippines has some beautiful diving spots! I spotted a sting ray on one of the dives in Batangas again. Dived at World War 2 Japanese ship wrecks #Vintage I call it! And am going to be a certified diver before end of this year!

It's so much fun in Philippines!