Saturday, June 21, 2014

The Passion of the Christ: Holy Week at Paombong, Philippines

With the Spanish and American rule, Catholicism became very popular in Philippines. Holy Week, the week before Easter, is a significant religious observance - the Palm Sunday, Holy Thursday, Good Friday, Black Saturday and Easter Sunday. Traditional Christians treat these days as fast days. Strict Catholics eat only one full meal, and two small meals (which together are less than one whole meal) in a day and no meat is prepared (beef, pork, chicken, etc.). The streets of Philippines see processions to mark thanks giving to the Lord.

Philippines is among few countries that celebrate The Passion of the Christ - on Good Friday, people volunteer to be crucified to a cross. I visited a colleague's home in Paombong over the Holy Week and visited the ground where the play takes place. People volunteer to self-flagellate or be crucified.

We arrived at my friend's place on Thursday morning, spent the day eating some delicious fish and sea food dishes - bangus, shrimp soup, crabs... all home made! Masarap!

Good Friday noon, we left for the procession being held at an open area close to the church. The churches don't approve of such practices, but people follow their beliefs and volunteer. You need to walk a few minutes to reach the place. Be warned before you read more..  In the crowd you can see some people self-flagellate and it's scary.Fortunately or unfortunately, I didn't witness flagellate, but I heard from the locals that there are some blood drops that come on you if you are walking near someone who volunteers to flagellate. Sometimes their back slits open, or small pieces of 'flesh' fly around. Sent shivers down my spine!

The Crucifixion - Good Friday commemorates the passion and death of Jesus, and people enact the sculptural Way of The Cross. The first crucifixion ceremony I witnessed (it was the second volunteer of the day playing one of the robbers that was crucified) was on stage where the volunteer was nailed to The Cross. It was a huge crowd . Some oil is applied to the volunteer's feet and palms.. The Cross is put up on a stage, and the volunteer nailed to it, one foot above the other; the palms nailed on both ends. But somehow, to me this was just half as scary as the way to The Cross. The volunteer playing Christ is scourged through the way while he carries the Cross, he fainted on the way, everyone waited for him to gain consciousness - 5 minutes and the ceremony resumed. The scourging is where I felt a little distressed. The volunteer carries The Cross up the stage where crucifixion will be performed, the Cross is stood up and volunteer crucified. This volunteer playing Jesus also recites sermons to everyone.

I wondered what the volunteer feels! They say they feel no pain, it is an expression of thanks to the Lord for all that he has done for us, and to pay penance.


After the crucifixion ceremony, everyone goes to the Church for mass. We took off earlier, and headed back home.



Reaching Paombong from Metro Manila:

Paombong, 2-4 hours from Manila. Catch a bus from Cubao to Hagnoy, which will drop you at Paombong Ministop. From there we took a Jeepney to our destination.

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