Kabayen Mummies Caves, Mt. Timbak (aka Mt. Singakalsa), Philippines

The Kabayen Mummies caves are a really interesting site to visit, and learn about the practices of burying the dead in Philippines centuries ago. 4 hours ride by shared van from Baguio (a famous tourist destination in Philippines), 

Most frequently taken route to get to the summit is via the KM 55 jump-off, and start the hike. The summit is about 3.5 KMs from there.

I took the way from Kabayan. Lodged at Pine Cone lodge overnight and started the trek at 5 am, so we can cover as much before the sun comes up. I met another traveler at the lodge and we hired a guide together to get to the peak of Mt. Timbak. 

Entrance to Cave at Kabayan town

The evening before that I visited another cave in the town itself. Just 5-7 minutes walk from the lodge. There were human skulls (arranged), and bones, and coffins. The coffins could be opened and the remains seen. There is a trail off the road, and goes from between the houses. A caretaker charges a small fee for the maintenance.

Human skulls, bones and coffins @Cave at Kabayan town

The next day, we took off for Mt. Timbak caves. I am not much of a hiker, and taking the longer route didn't seem like the best idea during the hike... but I did it :D And am glad I did.. The hike is okay, but the view is beautiful. With some terrace farming that you could see on the way. And the fact that it's the third highest mount in Luzon island and 9th highest in Philippines makes it interesting. They are now making a road to the top for easy access. 


On the way to the summit, we visited the burial caves. The mummified coffins were buried in caves. It was because they thought it was easier for the soul to depart from a cave, than from under the ground, so I have heard. The rocks were made softer by making a fire, and then the caves built. 

Way to Kabayan Burial Caves

Burial Caves

Bull/Boar horns are commonly found in the region

People commonly put a bull/boar horns in front of their shops, houses or on their cars. An age old practice, probably to ward off evil; or must have been a symbol of strength.. 

 It was a long long hike for me. The other traveler took off ahead ;) I somehow managed to make it to the caves and visited the caves. It was completely worth-it. Centuries old mummified remains in coffins, some with their ears and hair still there. The corpses were lay in coffins in fetal positions, and families were buried together in the same coffin sometimes. 

6 year old in fetal position mummified and buried in cave

Feet of a woman

The traditional tattoos can still be seen on the bones

Families were buried together in the same coffins sometimes

How to get there:

Manila to Baguio bus (I traveled Victory Liner)- 445 PHP, 8-10 hours
Baguio to Kabayen shared cab (FX) from slaughterhouse compound - PHP 150, 4-5 hrs

When covering Kabayen, and if there is time in hand one can do Baguio -> Kabayen -> Sagada -> Kalinga -> Banaue -> Manila. Can do Vigan as well, but it's slightly further north.

For Kalinga Buscalan village,
 http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2014/08/kalinga.html


For Hanging coffins, caving and more at Sagada:
http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2015/01/sagada-mt-province-hanging-coffins-and.html

Sagada, Mt. Province - Hanging coffins and a LOT more!

While I was researching about Sagada, and what I could do there, I mostly read about the hanging coffins.

I planned my week's trip with 2 days at Kabayen, 2 days at Sagada and then head to Vigan (I had already been to Kalinga so it wasn't on my list, but Kalinga is another place you must visit when you're doing this side of Philippines). It's only when I got to Sagada I learnt there is a lot more to the place than the hanging coffins.

The tourism department hands a map to you with the places you can visit during your stay. And there is plenty -- ranging from hiking, caving to waterfalls, lakes and the traditional practices mummification and hanging/buried in caves coffins. Apart from places to visit, the map gives u details of lodging, trips from Sagada to Baguio, to Banaue, and from Baguio/Banaue to Manila. Makes it very easy to plan.

 I reached mid-day, and headed to the Sugong hanging coffins view point, went to the Sumaging cave - but you can't enter Sumaging without a guide. I still took my chances. I went down the stairs, entered the cave (it was really dark, and my first time caving).


Went a couple of meters ahead, but it wasn't a good idea to go alone. I came back later to Sumaging with a group, we hired a guide.

Entrance of Sumaging Cave

When going caving, you can choose to visit only the Sumaging cave; or do a cave connect which begins at Lumiang cave and exits at Sumaging. I went only to Sumaging.

Be ready to get a little wet when you go caving. There is a river you can go to and take a swim and come out on the other side of the cave where you see rock formations. Or you can straight head to the rock formations.

Guide helping us go inside cave

Water inside Sumaging Cave

Not sure what the rock is made of, maybe limestone or something, but to look at, it seems very slippery. But when you step on it, the grip is better than the rest. Don't get over-confident tho, I slipped couple times. ;)

Caving

Caving

From Sumaging, I headed to Lumiang Burial Cave. You don't really need a guide to go there if you just want to walk around the cave and see the coffins. The gate to the trail for Lumiang is kind of small and difficult to locate. It's just opposite the parking area, next to a small street shop. 

Lumiang Burial Caves

 The coffins with lizard made on it were of people belonging to affluent families. People were buried in coffins in fetal positions, and sometimes families were together in the same coffin.

When you exit the burial caves, across the road are more coffins underground cave. Some travelers mentioned it is believed to belong to women who could not bear children (but the guide wasn't aware of a concept like that).

 I had reached Sagada on 31st December. It was evening, I grabbed some bear, had dinner with some more travelers I had met on the day, got invited (while I was walking back home) to join a family there who were having a bonfire and singing and dancing, and with them I went to the community basketball court for a bonfire after dinner with some more travelers. They play the gong, and dance and have a bonfire... People love to have bonfires in Sagada, it complements the weather, and the warm & welcoming people. And the gong is amazing... A very different and wonderful experience..


The following day I headed to Sagada Brew for a sumptuous brunch. Delicious food. Tables were always full, and I offered the extra seat at my table to another traveler. We were sitting outside on the porch (and woah, was it cold!). While I was finishing my plate, an old lady walked up, reached for the packet of smokes on the table, lit one and went on. It all happened in a matter of seconds, that by the time I realized what had happened she was on her way already ;)

Echo Valley Hanging Coffins

After brunch, we headed to the trails via the cemetery leading to Echo valley, rightly called so for anything you say echoes :) You cana see the hanging coffins from here. A trail from the Echo Valley goes to the Echo Valley hanging coffins. Another couple of minutes I was at the hanging coffins.


From Echo Valley hanging coffins, there is a connecting trail to the Underground river. While on your way, you cross another burial cave quite high up on a mountain. I went only up till here, but further ahead is the coffee plantation I believe.

Evening I headed to the underground river, the trail is easy, but best if you carry a stick or hiking pole if you're going alone. It's called underground river since a portion of it is in the cave. It starts there I believe.

Underground River

 This was nearly the end of my trip, last night I met some more locals, went singing with them.

More places to see in Sagada include blue soil mountains, sunset point hike, lakes and waterfalls.

How to get there:

Manila to Baguio bus (I traveled Victory Liner)- 445 PHP, 8-10 hours
Baguio to Sagada bus (can find one at the local bus stand) - 220 PHP 4-6 hours
I went to Sagada via Kabayen - from Kabayen high way, you can find a jeepney/jeep to Sagada direct, or to Bontoc (3-4 hrs) and then from Bontoc get a Jeepney to Sagada (1 hr)

When covering Sagada, and if there is time in hand one can do Baguio -> Kabayen -> Sagada -> Kalinga -> Banaue -> Manila. Can do Vigan as well, but it's slightly further north.

For Kalinga Buscalan village:
 http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2014/08/kalinga.html

For Kabayen mummies caves:
http://travellingexploringphilippines.blogspot.com/2015/01/kabayen-mummies-caves-mt-timbak-aka-mt.html